Setzer Weinviertel Gruner Veltliner Ausstich 2024

Ausstich means, roughly, the one that stands out. Generations ago the Setzers noticed a single cask tasting better than the rest, pulled it aside, and bottled it on its own — the name stuck, and it’s now the family’s calling card in the Weinviertel, the original home of peppery Grüner Veltliner. They’ve farmed Hohenwarth since 1705, on high limestone-laced soils that were once seabed, dry-farming and planting vines almost three times as densely as their neighbors do. This is Grüner in its classic Weinviertel dress: white pepper, citrus, bone-dry and crackling, with a salty finish that pulls you straight back in. Moderate in alcohol, immoderate in drinkability.